- An ultimate achievement any mountain climber can boast of: an exciting opportunity for anyone desiring to stand on the highest point on earth
- Guided expedition: Climb with our experienced Everest summiteers guides and mountaineers
- One base camp and four additional higher Camps supported by highly experienced mountaineers, guides, and crew members
- Expedition includes acclimatization and cultural trek into the scenic Sherpa heartland of the Khumbu Valley
Mt Everest climbing has proved to be a benchmark of climbing achievement. The mountain receives around 1000 summit attempts every year. Everest can be climbed both from the southern side Nepal and northern side Tibet. After the Cultural Revolution in the 1950s, China closed the Tibet borders to outsiders and Nepal began welcoming foreigners to the Everest Region. Since then the southern approach to the mountain via the Khumbu Valley became popular among the climbers. Mt. Everest was first summitted in 1953 by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary via the South Col. Climbing Mt. Everest is certainly a lifetime opportunity. However, Everest expeditions encounter many seen and unseen obstacles including high altitude, harsh weather conditions and even sheer exhaustion. Therefore, we strive hard to conduct the best expedition program putting high importance on the safety aspects of the climb.
Despite being the highest mountains on planet Earth, the Himalayan range of mountains including Mt. Everest are relatively younger than their American and European counterparts like the Andes, the Alps, and the Rockies. The Everest has fascinated the mountaineers all over the world since the European climbers discovered the Everest when Tibet was opened to outsiders in the 1920s. During his lecture tour to the U.S. in 1923, George Mallory gave the reason behind his interest in Everest Expeditions quipping, 'Because it's there'. Unfortunately, Mallory and Irvine disappeared high on the mountain in 1924 probably due to a snow storm similar to that documented by Jon Krakauer in his book Into the Thin Air. We believe that our planning, logistics, staffing and experience coupled with your enthusiasm, patience, and perseverance would help you achieve your lifetime dream.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel-1300m/4264ft
Upon your arrival in the Kathmandu airport (KTM) you will be greeted by a representative from Himalayan Glacier Trekking (HGT). After completing your custom formalities (Visa, etc) pick up your luggage and look for our representative with a Himalayan Glacier's display board at the arrival gate. You will be then transferred to your hotel. After check in, you will visit HGT office, meet your trekking guide as well as other participants and do final preparation for the trip. Later in the evening there will be a welcome dinner which will introduce you to the Nepalese food culture.
Day 02-03: At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Everest Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. Take rest, familiarize, and make a sightseeing tour to Kathmandu's World Heritage Sites. We make a guided tour to some of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu valley: Kathmandu Durbar Square, Pashupatinath, Swayambhu, and Boudhnath. The day will also be for finalizing official procedure and other necessary arrangements. You will be also briefed on the nature of expedition, equipments and team composition. You can also make your last minute buying of personal items as you will be flying to the Himalayas tomorrow. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding - 2,840m/9,315ft
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. The mountain flight over to Lukla is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters.After meeting our other crew members and with some packing and arrangements, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. Phakding lies on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
Day 06: At leisure in Namche Bazar
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).Although a leisure day, it's important not to remain idle. Health experts always recommend us to stay active and moving during the rest day too instead of being idle. We either spend the day taking a day hike to Thame or visiting Khunde or relaxing and exploring Namche Bazaar itself. Namche Bazzar is the main centre of the Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. If we trek a few hundred vertical feet during the day, it will help us to properly acclimatize. Our guides will take us to the Tourist Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where we can observe an assortment of things related to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various plant and animal life of the Everest region.
Day 07: Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche
We pass through several Chortens and Mani walls and small villages. We enjoy lunch with fantastic close-up views of Ama-Dablam. Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour's walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
Day 09-13: Acclimatization
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Day 14: Trek to Lobuje
Retrace back to Pheriche before continuing up the trail towards base camp. Reach Dugla situated below the snout of the Khumbu Glacier, a convenient place for lunch. After lunch, the trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuje.
Day 15: Trek to Everest Base Camp
Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep. This was the site of the base camp in 1953 and now consists of a few small tea houses. Leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble and eventually reaching base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next six weeks.
Day 16-18: Rest and preparation
Day 19-64: Ascent of Mt Everest
Day 65: Withdraw to Base Camp
All team members return to base camp and assist with packing expedition stores and cleaning the base camp area.
Day 66-68: Return trek to Namche Bazaar via Dingboche and Thyangboche
Day 70: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, Himalayan Glacier will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Included in the Cost
- Expedition Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu
- Flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back including airport transfers
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- Meals in Kathmandu and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
Not Included in the Cost
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.
We will be staying at Hotel Moonlight in Kathmandu, teahouses during trek and tents for climbing. All accomodations are on twin-shared basis.
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
- HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
- High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
- Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
Leader(s) & Staff Arrangements
Our Everest expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
Trekking days also help the body to respond and acclimatize with the high altitude environment. It's always advisable to go slow in the beginning stopping at villages that sit increasingly higher in the range. We would trek a few miles and then rest for the night, letting the body reconfigure to the thinner air. In the remote countryside, the €˜early to bed and early to rise schedule proves most suitable. A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs.
The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day's experience with team members.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber's personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
Description for the South Col route from Nepal:
From base camp on the Nepalese side, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections:
- The Khumbu Icefall
- The Western Cwm
- The Lhotse Face
- The Summit (South East) Ridge
Base Camp: 5,200 m (17,500 feet)
The Base Camp of Mount Everest at 5,200 m (17,500 feet) on a glacial field lies higher than most of the tallest peaks in the Alps and the Andes. It's necessary to spend enough time at the Base Camp to allow your body for high altitude acclimatization. You must feel fully comfortable before embarking further from the Base Camp. You can ascend a smaller peak, Kala Patthar which gives the views of Mount Pumori and the stark black pyramid of Everest itself. There will be a puja at the Base Camp with the Buddhist chants, prayers, and incense and prayer flags for the successful passage.
Base Camp to Camp 1: (6,400m/ 20000ft)
After the Base camp, we cross crevasses, sercs and ice black. Similarly we face large chunks of ice on the way up. The Sherpas fix the Khumbu Ice Fall with ropes and ladders. Use fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to climb ahead to camp 1 at 6400m. Camp 1 is situated at the top of the ice fall on a flat area of snow. Camp 1 also functions as an intermediate camp until Camp 2 is established at 21,000ft in the Western Cwm.
Camp 1 to Camp 2: 3-4 hours
Camp 2 is located at the foot of the icy mount Lhotse wall. Weather is fine here mostly except for the clouds that roll in from the low range. There can also be violent wind. Camp II will be the base during the placements of Camp 3 and Camp 4. Hence, Camp 2 will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several small tents for sleeping.
Camp 2 to Camp 3: 7,100m, 22300ft
Camp 3 is located at the height of 22300ft, adjoining to mount Lhotse wall. Climb the Lhotse wall using fixed rope and leading to camp 4. Ascend the steep down-slopping rotten limestone. Cross short snowfield route that moves ahead to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. Keep oxygen supply handy.
Camp 3 to Camp 4: 26000ft. (8,400m)
Oxygen will be used above Camp 3. Beyond camp 3, there may be some discomforts due to thinning air necessitating use of oxygen. Climbers need to go through the steep allow bands. Cross short snowfield, the route takes up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. Camp 4, located height of 8,400m, is the last camp of the Expedition.
Camp 4 to Summit
The final and dangerous part of the climbing. Chances of encountering violent wind. The summit is about 500m from Camp 4. The normal best way to reach to summit is via the narrow South - East Ridge.
The springtime from March to May is considered the favorable weather for Everest climbing. However, the weather conditions in Everest are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base camp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Although Everest is not as technical as K2 or Kanchenjunga, it’s simply not a piece of cakewalk to climb Everest even for the veteran mountaineers. It’s also true that getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. There is a real objective danger and judgmental error involved in every Everest Expedition. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing especially above 7,000m. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re Into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator's colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
Best Time to Travel
The spring season of March to May is considered the best time for Everest expedition. Spring is also the most popular season for the expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are the most unfavorable time for Everest Expedition.
Equipments & Packing List
- Headlamp. Bring plenty of spare bulbs & batteries
- Glacier glasses (w/ side covers or wrap around). 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use
- Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR.
- Balaclava. (1) Heavyweight, (1) Lightweight. Heavyweight must fit over lightweight
- Warm synthetic/wool hat.
- Bandanas (2). Used to shade your neck.
- Neoprene face mask. Optional
- Expedition Backpack. 3,500 - 4,000 cu. In.
- Trekking Backpack. 2,000 - 2,500 cu. in. (Optional)
- Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -40°F
- Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -20°F).
- Self Inflating pads (2). Two 3/4 or full length pads. Make sure to include a repair kit.
- Closed-Cell foam pad.
- Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better.
- Lipscreen. SPF 20 or better.
- Water Bottles: 2 to 3 Wide mouth bottles with minimum 1 Litre capacity per bottle
- Water Bottle parkas for the big bottles.
- Toiletry bag.
- Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth, clearly marked water bottle for use in tent.
- Pee Funnel (for women).
- Camp Knife or Multi Tool.
- Trash Compactor bags (4).
- Camera gear.
- Compression Stuff Sacks.
- Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5’7” use a 60cm tool; 5’7”- 6’1” use a 65cm tool; over 6’1” use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Make sure you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no technical leashes.
- Crampons. With “step in” bindings and flat rather than “cookie cutter” frame rails anti balling plates OK. Keep in mind that ice specific crampons are for technical ice climbing and are not recommended for glacier travel. Anti-balling plates (optional).
- Alpine climbing harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it.
- Carabiners (3) Locking; (3) Regular. 2 Twist lock & 1 small screw gate locker; 3 standard ovals recommended.
- Climbing helmet. Alpine climbing helmet with sizing adjustments.
- Ascender (1). One right or one left.
- Rappel/Belay device.
- Prussiks. Or bring 40 feet of flexible 6mm acessory cord to make into prussiks.
- Adjustable 3 Section Ski or Trekking poles. Optional but highly recommended. Helpful for non-snow covered ascents and descents if you have knee problems.
- Lightweight Synthetic gloves. 1 pair. Should fit comfortably inside mitts or gloves. Lighter capilene preferred.
- Heavyweight Synthetic/Soft Shell gloves. 1 pair.
- Expedition Shell Gloves w/ insulated removable liners. 1 pair.
- Expedition Shell Mitts. 1 pair. Should be big enough so that synthetic gloves fit inside pile liners.
- Hand warmers and Toe Warmers: Bring 3 sets of each.
- Light hiking boots or trekking shoes. For day hikes and trek to Base Camp
- Tennis shoes or low top shoes. For international travel and town days. Optional.
- Booties. Optional.
- Camp Boots. Optional. Insulated boot for Base Camp.
- Double Plastic Climbing Boots w/ altitude liners. Good quality plastic shells with inner boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks.
- Fully Insulated Overboots. Not needed with Millet Everest or Olympus Mons Boots.
- Gaiters. Not needed with One Sports or Olympus Mons.
- Trekking Socks. 3 pair.
- Wool or Synthetic Socks. 4 pair heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks.
- Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin
- Vapor barrier socks. Optional. Helps reduce moisture buildup in your boots, also keeps your feet a little warmer.
- Lightweight Long Underwear. 2-3 pair tops & bottoms.
- Heavyweight Long Underwear. 1 pair. Expedition weight Capilene. (Alternative: a one-piece suit)
- Lightweight Nylon Pants. 1 -2 pairs.
- Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt. 1-2 pairs.
- Synthetic/Soft Shell Jacket.
- Insulated Synthetic Pants. Full separating side zippers.
- Down Pants. .
- Expedition Down Parka. Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight.
- Insulated Synthetic Jacket. Optional. Allows you to leave your down parka up higher on the mountain as we establish higher camps.
- Hard Shell jacket w/ hood. We recommend a waterproof breathable shell material with full front zipper, underarm zips, and no insulation. This outer layer protects against wind and rain.
- Hard Shell Pants. Waterproof, breathable. Full length side zippers
The list we’ve provided is only a guideline. Everything mentioned here is required. It’s your choice regarding the brand. However we suggest you to purchase from best brands available so that it makes your climb safe and comfortable.
Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email
. If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: 00977-98510-55684