- Three Summits - Attempt from the North West side
- Guided expedition: Climb with our experienced Everest and other 8,000er summiteer guides and mountaineers
- One base camp and three additional higher camps supported by highly experienced mountaineers, guides, and crew members
- Expedition includes acclimatization and spend time in villages with Tibetan and Nepali cultures
Pasang Lhamu Chuli also goes by three other names: Jasumba, Cho Aui and Nagpai Gosum Peak. The first recorded summit to the peak was in 1986 by a Japanese team from the northern Tibetan side gaining the prominent North West ridge to the summit. In 2009, a Swiss team consisting of three young mountaineers reached the top of Nagpai Gosum through the southern face, which no one had climbed before. The standard route begins from with trekking from Lukla and via Namche Bazar passes through the pass Nagpa La. Nagpa La is an important route for the Tibetan refugees fleeing Tibet. The Base Camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,100 meters. Mount Nagpai Gosum or the Pasang Lhamu Chuli lies in the Cho Oyu massif about six kilometers west of Mount Cho Oyu. In fact, Mount Nagpa Gosum is the highest of three 7000m-peaks in the south-western ridge of Cho Oyu (8201m). The impressive north-face of Nagpa Gosum with its white "spider" can also be seen from the Gyabrag-glacier above Cho Oyu Base Camp.
The Pasang Lhamu Chuli or Nagpa Gosum Base Camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,400 meters one hour from the traditional yak caravan route from Tibe to Namche Bazar over Nangpai La. Advanced Base Camp at 5600 m at the foot West Ridge Nampa La. Two more camps will be set up as we climb higher. Camp I at 6,250m just below the second Col. Camp II at 7,100m on the snow hump. After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge, reach the summit made of ice pyramid with hardly enough space to stand on it. From the summit, savor the astonishingly close view of Everest and other high peaks, then rappel down and get back to Base Camp the next day.
- Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and hotel transfer
- Day 02-03: Kathmandu Sightseeing & Preparation for the Expedition
- Day 04: Fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding
- Day 05: Trek to Namche
- Day 06: Rest & Acclimatization at Namche
- Day 07: Trek to Thame
- Day 08: Trek to Arye
- Day 09: Trek to Lunak
- Day 10: Trek to Khajung
- Day 11: Trek to Jagsamba (Pasang Lhamu Chuli Base Camp)
- Day 12 - 42: Climbing period
- Day 43: Retrace to Lunak
- Day 44: Trek to Thame
- Day 45: Trek to Namche
- Day 46: Trek to Lukla
- Day 47: Fly to Kathmandu
- Day 48: Free day in Kathmandu
- Day 49: Airport transfer for return flight
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Included in the Cost
- Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu/Lhasa
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- Meals in Kathmandu/Lhasa and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpas
- Airport transfers
- Satellite phone service
- Oxygen (2 4-litre bottles)
Not Included in the Cost
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.
We will be staying at Hotel Moonlight in Kathmandu and Kyichu Hotel in Lhasa. We will be accomodatd in teahouses during the trek and camps (tents) during the climb.
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
- HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
- High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
- Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
Leader(s) & Staff Arrangements
Our Pasang Lhamu Chuli expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs.
The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day's experience with team members.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber's personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
For this expedition, reliable walking in snow and ice is necessary. Demonstrate a working knowledge of alpine rope technique, crampons and ice axes are basic requirements. For the largely running in the glaciated regions of ascent route in addition to complete roping and ice climbing gear and walking sticks, and very well-insulated shell mountaineering boots are required.
After establishing base camp at 5,400m, we acclimatize by climbing on Dzasampatze peak immediately south of Pasang Lhamu Chuli. With a little ice-climbing at first and then snow-trudging, we arrive at the Camp I at 6,200m. From Camp I, the climbing becomes more complex with big snow mushrooms between which lay steep ice walls. Camp II will be set up at 7,100m on the snow hump just behind Triangular Rock Peak. A few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge, then traverse about 300m to the right and get to the last summit ridge. Climb up 3 more pitches to reach the real summit, an ice pyramid not having enough space to stand on it. While climbing ice, make a good protection and belay using ice screws.
The springtime from March to May and the autumn months from September to November is considered the favorable weather for Mount Pasang Lhamu Chuli climbing. However, the weather conditions in high mountains are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base camp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pasang Lhamu Chuli requires both stamina and skill. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re Into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator's colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
Best Time to Travel
The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Nagpai Gosum expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.
Equipments & Packing List
Carry a light 35-50L rucksack with your personal belongings that you may need handy such as camera, hat, glasses, gloves, sun creams, first-aid kit, toothpaste/brush, soap/ towel, and other personal items. Keeping yourself hydrated all the time during trekking and climbing is very important for your performance and well being. Therefore, always remember to carry water container with at least 1 liter of water in your backpack.The porters and yaks carry all your heavy gears and luggage. While you will need your down jacket around base camp until the sun hits camp after breakfast. Above the Base Camp, carry also ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag, snacks in your rucksack. The Sherpas will carry other heavy items and gears in the mountain.
Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email
. If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: 00977-98510-55684