- Fourth Highest Peak in the world
- A striking peak with a tremendous south face
- One of the steepest faces in the world: Rises 3.2 km in just 2.25 km of horizontal distance
- Three summits: Lhotse Main (8,516 meters), Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters), and Lhotse East (8,413 meters)
Lhotse lies about 3 km south of Mount Everest, separated by the South Col. In fact, Lhotse means South Face. Three peaks that make up the Lhotse massif are: Lhotse East or middle, Lhotse Shar and Lhotse. Immediately south of Mount Everest lies the long east-west crest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col. South Face of Lhotse is the most technical face of Lhotse. The Lhotse South Face is also one of the largest mountain faces in the world. The section during the climb, which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous, is the Khumbu Icefall. Both Mt Everest and Lhotse share the same base camp. In fact, Lhotse is a part of Everest massif itself.
However, Lhotse is considered to be an independent mountain. After several unsuccessful attempts, the South Face was successful climbed only in 1984. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities. Lhotse can be climbed either from Everest Base Camp or nearby Chhukung. Being an 8,000er, the Lhotse Expedition encounters many obstacles including high altitudes, harsh weather conditions and even sheer exhaustion. We believe our planning, logistics, staffing and experience coupled with your enthusiasm, patience, and perseverance would help you achieve your lifetime dream. We strive hard to conduct the best expedition program at a fair price.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival KTM & transfer to hotel -1300m/4264ft
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening Himalayan Glacier Trekking will organize welcome dinner for you in a centrally located Nepalese restaurant while briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02-03: At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Everest Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnath and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla - 2,840m/9,315ft
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night's stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
Day 06: At leisure in Namche Bazar
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).
Day 07: Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche
Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour's walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
Day 09-14: Acclimatization
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.
While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Day 14-40: Climbing period of Lhotse and Back to Base Camp
Climbing period of Lhotse and Back to Base Camp
Day 41-43: Trek to Namche Bazaar via Dingboche and Thyangboche
Trek to Namche Bazaar via Dingboche and Thyangboche
Day 44-45: Trek to Phakding and Lukla
Trek to Phakding and Lukla
Day 46: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, Himalayan Glacier will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Day 47: Rest day in Kathmandu
Today the journey comes to an end. There's nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.
Day 48: Departure to your next destination
Departure to your next destination
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Per person in Group joining basis $20,000
Included in the Cost
- Expedition Expedition permit fees
- 3-star hotel in Kathmandu, teahouses during trek and tents during the climb
- Flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back including airport transfers
- Meals in Kathmandu and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
Not Included in the Cost
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.
We will be staying at Hotel Moonlight in Kathmandu and best available tea-houses during the trek and camps (in tents) during the climb.
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
- HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
- High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
- Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
- Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
Leader(s) & Staff Arrangements
Our Lhotse expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers
who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber's personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
Trek to base camp:
The initial days of trekking takes us deep into the Khumbu Valley. The moderately paced trek also helps in enough time for acclimatization. Walking past several Sherpa villages also provides an opportunity to acquaint with the Himalayan culture. The trek winds through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, where you can relax in exotic, friendly Sherpa villages. Our trusty yaks and porters carry all of your baggage, so you don't have to carry a heavy rucksack.
Base camp to Camp 1:
The Base Camp for Lhotse is the same as for the Everest Expedition. Other camps are Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3 and then you split off from there to a Lhotse Camp 4. Clip in to the fixed lines to head through the Khumbu Icefall up to the plateau of the Western Cwm and camp 1, at 5,800 metres/19,000 feet.
From Camp 1 to Camp 2:
The route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western Cwm, to 6,200 metres/20,300 feet to camp 2. Camp 2 is located on a rocky moraine below the west-face of Everest. In camp 2 our sherpa cook will prepare hot meals and drinks.
Camp 2 to Camp 3:
Located on a flat section protected by solid ice walls at about 7,200 metres/23,600 feet on the Lhotse face. To reach camp 3, we must negotiate the Lhotse Face. The Lhotse face is not very technical, in fact, after climbing the initial 38-65 degree 100 metre/300 foot high ramp, the average slope angle of the entire 'face' is around 30 degrees.
Camp 3 to Camp 4:
Located upon rock shelves on the upper Lhotse face. It is the highest camp at 7850 metres/25,700 feet, and can be an airy perch for the few days we reside there. Camp 4 at 7850 metres/25,700 feet on the upper Lhotse face.
The springtime from March to May is considered the favorable weather for Lhotse climbing. However, the weather conditions in Everest are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base camp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
A previous high altitude climbing experience is essential. Work together as a team so that all members reach the top safely. Members need to have experience in being part of a team, working toward a common goal, and be ready to work with the group and be a good team-player.
The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing especially above 7,000m. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Remember, your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
Best Time to Travel
The spring season of March to May is considered the best time for Lhotse expedition. Spring is also the most popular season for the expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are the most unfavorable time for Lhotse Expedition. The temperatures can vary from 27°c to - 7°c at lower elevations, and at higher elevations, it can vary from 16°c to -23°c.
Equipments & Packing List
Carry a light 35-50L rucksack with your personal belongings that you may need handy such as camera, hat, glasses, gloves, sun creams, first-aid kit, toothpaste/brush, soap/ towel, and other personal items. Keeping yourself hydrated all the time during trekking and climbing is very important for your performance and well being. Therefore, always remember to carry water container with at least 1 liter of water in your backpack. The porters and yaks carry all your heavy gears and luggage. While Trekking from Lukla, you can wear a T-Shirt and trousers. You will need your down jacket around base camp until the sun hits camp after breakfast. Above the Base Camp, carry also ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag, snacks in your rucksack. The Sherpas will carry other heavy items and gears in the mountain.
Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email
. If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: 00977-98510-55684