Pasang Lhamu Chuli also goes by three other names: Jasumba, Cho Aui and Nagpai Gosum Peak. The first recorded summit to the peak was in 1986 by a Japanese team from the northern Tibetan side gaining the prominent North West ridge to the summit. In 2009, a Swiss team consisting of three young mountaineers reached the top of Nagpai Gosum through the southern face, which no one had climbed before. The standard route begins from with trekking from Lukla and via Namche Bazar passes through the pass Nagpa La. Nagpa La is an important route for the Tibetan refugees fleeing Tibet. The Base Camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,100 meters. Mount Nagpai Gosum or the Pasang Lhamu Chuli lies in the Cho Oyu massif about six kilometers west of Mount Cho Oyu. In fact, Mount Nagpa Gosum is the highest of three 7000m-peaks in the south-western ridge of Cho Oyu (8201m). The impressive north-face of Nagpa Gosum with its white "spider" can also be seen from the Gyabrag-glacier above Cho Oyu Base Camp.
The Pasang Lhamu Chuli or Nagpa Gosum Base Camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,400 meters one hour from the traditional yak caravan route from Tibe to Namche Bazar over Nangpai La. Advanced Base Camp at 5600 m at the foot West Ridge Nampa La. Two more camps will be set up as we climb higher. Camp I at 6,250m just below the second Col. Camp II at 7,100m on the snow hump. After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge, reach the summit made of ice pyramid with hardly enough space to stand on it. From the summit, savor the astonishingly close view of Everest and other high peaks, then rappel down and get back to Base Camp the next day.
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Physical Condition & Experience Requirements
Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pasang Lhamu Chuli requires both stamina and skill. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re Into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator's colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
Best Time to Travel to Pasang Lhamu Chuli (Nagpai Gosum) Expedition
The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Nagpai Gosum expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.