Situated in the Khumbu Himal just southwest of Mount Everest in the western part of the Lhotse-Nuptse-massif, Mount Nup-tse is the southern border of the Everest's Western Cwm. The main ridge of Nuptse is separated from Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle and has 7 peaks. The main summit Nuptse I (7861m) was first summited by a British expedition on the north-ridge in 1961. The Nuptse ridge goes west-northwest until its steep west-face drops down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. The south-face of Nuptse is 2500m high and 5 kilometers wide. The north side is above the Western-Cwm valley with the upper part of the Khumbu-glacier above its famous icefall.
Our Nuptse Expedition begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu Region. We follow the normal route to Lhotse and Nuptse massif. The Base Camp lies beside the Khumbu Glacier above its icefall. The steep and rocky south-face of Nuptse slopes rise from the Western valley with the upper part attached with Khumbu-glacier, above the icefall.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival KTM & transfer to hotel
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening Himalayan Glacier Trekking will organize welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu meanwhile briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02-03: Kathmandu Sightseeing and Preparation for Nuptse Expedition
Sightseeing and Preparation for Nuptse Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnath and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night's stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
Day 06: At leisure in Namche Bazar
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).
Day 07: Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche
Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour's walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
Day 09: Acclimatization
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.
While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Day 10: Trek to Lobuche
Retrace back to Pheriche before continuing up the trail towards base camp. Reach Dugla situated below the snout of the Khumbu Glacier, a convenient place for lunch. After lunch, the trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuche.
Day 11: Trek to Nuptse Base Camp
Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep. This was the site of the base camp in 1953 and now consists of a few small tea houses. Leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble and eventually reaching base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next six weeks.
Day 12: Rest, Acclimatization and preparation
Day 13-37: Ascent of Mt Nuptse
Day 38: Withdraw to Base Camp
All team members return to base camp and assist with packing expedition stores and cleaning the base camp area.
Day 39: Retrace to Lobuche
Day 40: Trek to Pangboche
Day 43: Fly to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, Himalayan Glacier will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Day 44: Free day in Kathmandu
Today the journey comes to an end. There's nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.
Day 45: Airport transfer for return flight
Important Note :
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
What Is Included
- Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu/Lhasa
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- Meals in Kathmandu/Lhasa and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpas
- Airport transfers
- Satellite phone service
- Oxygen (2 4-litre bottles)
What Is Not Included
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Health and Experience Requirements
Although a 7,000er, Mt. Nuptse is Everest’s cousin, hence requires both stamina and skill. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re Into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator's colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.For more information
Equipment and Packing List
While packing for Nuptse Expedition certain equipments are essential.
Please Click here
for this trip's comprehensive checklist.
A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs.
The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day’s experience with team members.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
We attempt to climb the normal route to the Lhotse and Nuptse massif. The Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier above its famous icefall as well as from another side closed to Island Peak (Imja Tse). Our Base Camps will be located at 5200 meters and we will be able to associate there without problems. Our plan is to set up three camps above the Base Camp. Please remember to acclimatize and take rest properly before you climb higher. Also keep yourself hydrated and take into account of the weather conditions. From the Base Camp, climb to Camp I at 5700m and then to Camp II at 6350m. We depart from Camp II at 6350 meters in the Western Cwm to our Nuptse tent below Nuptse’s north rib. From here we climb ten pitches of mixed ice and rock. After acclimatizing up to Camp III at 7400 meters on Lhotse’s West Face, we wait for better conditions. The view from this side of the CWM of Everest and Lhotse look magnificent. Three more bivys, at 6950, 7100 and 7400 meters take us to the top of Nuptse. The team would need to fix the line for about 200 meters above Camp 3 and to near the top of the snow ridge. Our climb involves constant battle with spindrifts, wind, snow and hard climbing before we finally conquer the summit. After summitting, we rappel down directly to Camp II.
The springtime from March to May and the Autumn months from September to November is considered the favorable weather for Mt. Nuptse climbing. However, the weather conditions in high mountains are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base camp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Leader(s) and Staff Arrangements
Our Nuptse expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
- HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
- High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
- Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
- Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Nuptse expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.
Trip Start Dates
We will organize this trip on the dates requested by you. If the given date is not favorable then please contact us and we will happily customize your trip on dates more appropriate for you.
Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email
. If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: 00977-98510-55684