Pumori Expedition-35 days
A moderately technical pyramid snow and rock mountain, Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among the 7000er Himalayas of Nepal. Climbing Pumori proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori lies in the Khumbu Region of Nepal 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. First ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language. Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumari is technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previous mountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. The ascent to the Pumori is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Lhotse and Everest.
Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We take the classic route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp. The Base camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Per person in Group joing basis $9,900
What Is Included
- Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu/Lhasa
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- Meals in Kathmandu/Lhasa and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpas
- Airport transfers
- Satellite phone service
- Oxygen (2 4-litre bottles)
What Is Not Included
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Detailed Expedition Itinerary
Arrival KTM & transfer to hotel
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening Himalayan Glacier Trekking will organize welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu meanwhile briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Pumori Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnath and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone's equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night's stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before
reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
At leisure in Namche Bazar
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,450m (11,300ft).
Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi.
Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Trek to Dingboche
Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour's walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.
While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Trek to Lobuche
Retrace back to Pheriche before continuing up the trail towards base camp. Reach Dugla situated below the snout of the Khumbu Glacier, a convenient place for lunch. After lunch, the trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuche.
Trek to Pumori Base Camp
Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep. This was the site of the base camp in 1953 and now consists of a few small tea houses. Leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble and eventually reaching base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next six weeks.
Rest, Acclimatization and preparation
Ascent of Mt Pumori
Withdraw to base camp
All team members return to base camp and assist with packing expedition stores and cleaning the base camp area.
Retrace to Lobuche
Trek to Pangboche
Trek to Namche
Trek to Lukla
Fly to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, Himalayan Glacier will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Free day in Kathmandu
Today the journey comes to an end. There's nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.
Airport transfer for return flight
Recommended Previous Experience
Mt. Pumori is a challenging mountain. Moreover, getting back from the summit is more important than getting there. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. The weather is never fully predictable. The climbers must have years of prior experience on rock and ice climbing. You also need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along a steep technical terrain. Moreover, as Jon Krakauer says, while you’re Into the Thin Air up there, “The consequences of a poorly tied knot, a stumble, a dislodged rock, or some other careless deed are as likely to be felt by the perpetrator's colleagues as the perpetrator.” Your actions affect not only your own, but welfare of the entire team.
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.For more information
A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs.
The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day’s experience with team members.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
Pumori Base Camp:
Fly Kathmandu to Lukla then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche, Pheriche and Lobuche. The base camp lies at 5,300m beside a small lake. Our plan is to set up two camps above the Base Camp. Please remember to acclimatize and take rest properly before you climb higher. Also keep yourself hydrated and take into account of the weather conditions.
About 3 hrs walk from the Base Camp takes us to camp 1 or advance base camp at 5700m. From Camp 1, there’s a walk of 500m with 40 to 65 degrees slopes. The mountain has many rock and mixed climb with traverse, steep and exposed ridges. There are also some ice walls which sometimes may require fixed ropes.
Camp 2 lies at 6200m on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. From Camp 2, there’s an ice climb with 35-65 degrees for about 400meters with ice walls and crevasses. Take note of the avalanche danger from big seracs that hang from the shoulder of 6500m.
Camp 3 & Summit:
Camp 3 lies at 6850m. Generally, it’s windy around the camp. Also visible from the camp site is the Tibetan plateau. For the summit push, prepare the rope which may be necessary to cross many crevasses and ice walls. Of the two ranges – the one from Nepal side is easier than the Tibet side. Summit the mountain on its vertex at 7145m.
The springtime from March to May and the Autumn months from September to November is considered the favorable weather for Mt. Pumori climbing. However, the weather conditions in high mountains are never fully predictable. Temperatures may get as low as minus 20C in summer, but can drop to minus 60C or even lower during winter. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account. Similarly, the wind speeds may rise to 80Km/h (50mph). At the Base camp the temperature is about 15C warmer than at the summit. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level.
Our Pumori expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
The spring season of March to May and the autumn season of September to November are considered the best time for Pumori expedition. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period. The summer months of monsoon rains and the winter months from December to February are considered to be the most unfavorable time climbing.
Trip Start Dates and Price
Why Expedition with Himalayan Glacier Trekking?
Going on any adventure trip will require a substantial sum of money be paid in advance. Yet trusting a company you have no prior experience with involves a risk. We, however, are a fully bonded trek operator authorized by Nepal Government, Tourism and Civil Aviation Department, Nepal Tourism Board, Industry Department, Company Registration Office, Nepal National Bank and the Taxation Office. We are also affiliated with such prestigious regulating bodies as NATTA, NMA, TAAN, and KEEP. Besides, that we have launched our new LLC office in the US also ensures that your payment is secure with us.
A detailed list of our registrations and licenses for operation:
Fair Price with Quality:
- Nepal Ministry of Industry, Office of Company Register, Reg No: 7964/054/055
- Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Tourism, Reg No: 388/054
- Nepal Department of Small Cottage and Industries, Reg No: 1150/211
- Nepal Ministry of Finance, Department of Tax, PAN No: 500093863
- Tax Clearance Certificate No: 2362/065/066
- Central Bank Of Nepal, Nepal Rastra Bank, Department of Foreign Currency Exchange, Authorization No: 379/064/065
- North Carolina Secretary of State (United States of America), SOSID 113015
- Bank of America, 6611 Carmel Rd Charlotte, NC 28226
Service, quality and fair prices - is the motto of our business. The packages we have offer unbeatable value for money. But you don't have to take our word on it - we just ask our clients shop around to other adventure companies to try to find a similar package at a better price. However, we do not compromise on quality to cut down the costs. Our edge over other international operators is that we are a Nepal based business that allows us to keep our overheads to a minimum. So we can offer the same facilities as those provided by a Western company at literally a fraction of the price. That about 40% of our bookings come from repeat business proves our performance when it comes to client satisfaction.
Sustainable Operation Policies:
HGT observes responsible and sustainable tourism practices. The company works closely with all stakeholders including the local communities to protect and conserve natural environment. We ensure that all our adventure programs leave least possible carbon footprint. We are also aware of the corporate social responsibility, hence we maintain highest ethical and professional standards as well as transparency in our business practices.
Local and Experienced Mountain Leaders:
HGT employs and trains local staff so that the local communities benefit from our adventure operations. However, we never compromise on our high safety and quality standards. All of our leaders and guides are carefully selected based on their aptitude, experience, and leadership skills. Most of our guides have been continuously working with us for more than 10 years. Our guides are trained for remote emergencies and are well versed in local politics, culture and customs. Please check out the personal records of our guides who have scaled the Mt. Everest several times, including hundreds of other lesser peaks. Thus, we guarantee that all our guides, cooks, and other crews members are qualified and experienced professionals who make it sure that you're always safe, sound, and happy.
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