Ranking 14th among the highest peaks on earth, Mount Shishapangma is one of the easiest 8,000er mountains. Unlike the 8,000ers that lie either in Nepal or Nepal-Tibet Border, Shishapangma is the only 8,000er that completely lies inside Tibet. In fact, the mountain came to limelight only after the Chinese Government opened Tibet to the Western summiteers in 1978. Shishapangma means "the range above the grassy plain" and Tibetans worship the mountain as a holy being. The mountain is also the youngest as well as smallest of its other 8,000er cousins.The normal route to Shishapangma is the North West Ridge. The route takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. Sherpas fix the lines on the steeper or crevassed sections. The summit day is the most arduous day in the climb - the summit lying on the far end of the high snowfield. However, all the hard labor gets rewarded on the summit with the magnifiscent views the highest peaks unfolding before your eyes.
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties.During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Base Camp is set up at a place called Chinese Base Camp. Stay at Base Camp for three or four nights for acclimatization, depending on how everyone feels and the schedule of the yaks. ABC is to the north of the main Himalayan range, which is also the main base camp during the expedition period. Preparations are made for transporting all the expedition equipment by Yak to ABC. Keep low and follow the glacier river. ABC is situated just at the snout of the glacier on the west side of the moraine at around 5,600m. A relatively flat place with many old prayer flags strewn from previous Puja or Prayers. A couple of day's rest & acclimatization at ABC then begin our ascent of the mountain.
After the Puja or Prayer for safe passage, we walk up the mountain. From ABC, several hours of tough walking over rough moraine. Put an intermediate camp and change boots for the glacier. Cross a large glacier at around 5800 meters. to a flat area then begin the climb to Camp 1. Pass over some crevassed slopes on the fixed have ropes fixed over them. Camp 1 lies on a flat snow field cut by narrow but deep crevasses.
Takes about 5-7 hours from camp 1 to Camp 2. Involves a short but steep ascent followed by a gentler climb, usually in deeper snow, to the Col below the North-West Ridge. The route crosses the rest of the flat glacier then climbs. Usually this broad slope has ropes fixed up sections of it. It could avalanche in bad conditions. Above is a huge area, a gentle ridge. There are several options for the placing of camps from this point. We will probably put a camp here at first, then perhaps move it further along after staying for the first time.
Takes about 5-6 hours to reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.Once in camp 2 we must make every effort to prepare for the following day. Acclimatize properly at Camp 2. Sherpas will ensure that the fixed lines are in place. In order to function effectively on summit day, it is important to drink as much as possible and this involves a big effort since the altitude makes the easiest physical work very demanding.
Depending on the conditions, it takes between 8-12 hours for reaching the summit. From Camp 3, reach the shoulder at 7,400m around first light. A steep but easy snow climb to the shoulder before gaining the ridge itself. Several rock bands and steep snow slopes to cross. Cross the difficult slopes with the help of fixed ropes. Stay on the ridge to the top to avoid the more exposed snow slope near the main summit. From the summit, enjoy the magnificent views of the high Himalayas including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and many others. Descent by the same route. Nights are spent at camp 2 and camp 1.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign: