Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing-36 days
Lying between greater cousin peaks of Lhotse and Makalu at the epicenter of three glacial valleys - the Barun, the Imja, and the Hunku - Baruntse was one the early Himalayan peaks recognized by Edmund Hillary's team for climbing east of Everest. The mountain was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow in 1954 by the South-East Ridge. The peak is crowned by four summits on four ridges with a high rate of successful ascent on normal route via South Ridge. Despite being a 7000er, Baruntse Expedition involves various 8000m climb components, thus offering itself as an ideal training peak for higher climbing.
The steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse somewhat difficult climb. The route via Lukla, the Mera La, and Hinku Valley offers a more accessible alternative. Therefore, we will attempt a more popular and accessible route via the South Ridge with the opportunity of acclimatizing at the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft). Two high camps above the Base Camp - Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m.
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Per person in Group joing basis $8,900
What Is Included
- Baruntse Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu
- Flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back including airport transfers
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- meals in Kathmandu and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
What Is Not Included
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs )
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax
We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.
During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.
Detailed Expedition Itinerary
Arrival day in Kathmandu
Welcome to Himalayan country of Nepal. Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan intl. airport our representative welcomes you and assists to transfer in your hotel in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft). After time to get refreshed remainder you may relax at the hotel, evening you will meet and transfer for welcome dinner in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu and briefing about next day trip and overnight at Hotel.
Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Trek Preparation
Today after breakfast we start a guided tour to some of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites such as the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath and the Buddhists shrine (Bouddha Nath) which is one of the largest Stupas in the world. In the afternoon, you get introduced with fellow members and guide and there will be a pre-trip discussion along with preparation and checking of the equipments for the expedition. Himalayan Glacier Trekking leader briefs us regarding our expedition as well as provides us opportunity to ask any questions we may have regarding our upcoming adventure. Overnight at hotel.
Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (Chutok) - 2730m/8954ft : 3-4 hours
Early morning's scenic flight takes us to a small airstrip to Tenjin-Hillary airport to Lukla (2,840m/9,315ft) and you will experience your first breakfast in the mountains whilst the Himalayan Glacier Trekking team organizes porters, while the guide sort and divide the load baggage to be carried by porters. We trek down from Lukla, as it makes sense to fly up to Lukla for acclimatization and walk down. Walk through the jungle down to Shurke then a bit ahead have lunch nearby Pakhapani or so. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, hills you will gradually reach the vicinity of Paiya for the first night's camp. A number of peaks are visible from here such as Knogde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and other peaks above 7 thousand meters from Paiya. Overnight at Paiya.
Paiya to Pangkoma - 2850m/93,48ft : 5-6 hours
After breakfast, march a little down we reach wooden bridge and then carefully go ahead through the slippery trail to cross Kari La Hill (pass). Have lunch in the village ahead and start up walking through the rhododendron and bamboo forests through the narrow mountain trail. Make your camera ready with full charge to catch the outstanding views of Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kund Himal, before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangkongama for the night's rest.
Pangkoma to Nigmsa(Shibuche) - 2745m/90,03ft : 4-5 hours
The trail descends the rock-strewn path leading to the rhododendron forest. We come across a lot of Mani walls through the trail. Passing again through hills, ridges, and teahouses, start downwards and have lunch around there in village nearby. Mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak(6064m/19890) and Naulekh Peak. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply. Walk past forests of pine and rhododendron to reach Nigmsa (Shibuche) where we camp for the night's rest.
Nigmsa (Shibuche) to Chetrakhola - 3150m/10332ft : 7-8 hours
After breakfast, start up though a steep and slope way through a hill and through narrow and typical mountain trail, a bit complicated ahead through rhododendron and bamboo forests reaching to the stream. Straight ahead and up through the rhododendron. A little down through the bamboo jungle and past a nice stone cave by the side of a river, We camp for the night's rest. Overnight at Chhetra Khola.
Chetrakhola to Kothe - 3600m/11808ft : 6-7 hours
Starting after breakfast , reach a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley with unfolding splendor of nature surrounding us from the Hinku Valley. Straight through the bamboo and pine forest in the narrow trails enjoying the view of Mera and the Hinku Valley, there is possibility of encountering with mountain wild animals like sloth bear, jungle cat, etc. among the tall pine trees. Past Tashing Dingma, we find shops and teahouses where you will have your lunch. Continue ahead by the ridge of the river in the Hinku valley all the way up and reach Kothe. Overnight in Kothe.
Kothe to Tangnang - (4,350m/14,270ft) : 3-4 hours
Today is another short day in which we trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola and in the shadow of Mera Peak. Lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders' settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, pass a 200 year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we find Mera peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. There will be a prayer for success ascent of Mera Peak in the boulder of the Gompa offering incense. A short walk will takes to Thagnag, a summer grazing area with the primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thagnag at the camp.
Rest & some Hiking to Charpate Himal glacier
Today is your rest day. Stay active to be ready for next day's adventure. After breakfast, hike for about 3 hours up to Charpate Himal Glacier. Seen very close from the Thangnag, Charpate Himal is regarded holy by the Sherpa community and is worshipped by traditional Sherpas of the mountains. Observe Mera North that appears very close and pleasant from here too. After an hour's pleasant hike downwards, get back at the camp at Thangnang. Overnight at Thangnang.
Tangnang to Khare - 5,045m/16,486ft : 2-3 hours
Today, we head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. Follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from Khare. Overnight at Khare.
Rest Day in Khare
Today will be the rest and preparation day. This morning after a breakfast, we prepare our gear for ice climbing just above the Khare and need to walk couple of hrs from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. This will also be a time for practicing few hrs Ice climbing. After few hrs practicing at glacier, stroll back to camp and final preparation of equipment and packing of our mountain bags.
Khare to High camp - 5,780m/18,958ft : 4-5 hours
Walk through rock-strewn area for about two hours. Making way to Mera High Camp can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. Make way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. Set up a high camp and from here the sunrise and sunset can be view along with the Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse are outstanding and seems like they are piercing the skyline. Overnight in Mera High Camp.
High camp to Mera Peak Summit to Kongma Dingma - 4850m/15912 ft : 9-10 hrs
A big day. Wake up around 2.30 am and have very early breakfast today. After breakfast, your put on crampons and rope and set up for special journey to the summit. If well-acclimatized, it takes around 4-6 hours to reach the summit of Mera central. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Nuptse and many peaks over six thousand. After achieving the summit, get back to high camp. Continue down to Kongma Dingma for the night's rest. Overnight at Khare.
Spare day: Just because of bad weather
This day is used as a spare day for weather or some other reasons. If weather became exceptionally unfavorable we wisely have to postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 12. Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent.
Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari - 5035m/16519 ft : 6 hrs
Climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari or White Lake, the first of a series of lakes that occupy the upper Hongu Basin. Experience the wilderness of the Hongu Valley. The Hongu Valley is true mountain wilderness. On the right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces.
Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp - 5300m/17388 ft : 6 hrs
Cross the wide and grassy valley scattered with small boulders. The valley gets increasingly barren as you climb higher. Pass the Peak 41 and Hunku Peak on your left and proceed to our base camp and main objective of the trip - Mt Baruntse. Overnight in camp.
Baruntse Climbing Period
An Advanced Base Camp would be set up at an altitude of 6,000m near the glacier at the foot of the South East Ridge. We need to allow enough time for additional acclimatization and for load carrying to stock ABC and Camp 1. Camp 1 is at a height of 6,450m on the South-East Ridge proper. Above Camp 1, we climb 45° snow slopes and the route becomes more demanding. Fixed line would be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col. The route above C2 requires some fixing which would be done by our Sherpa guides. From Camp 2, we climb to the summit. Descent is by the same route, sleep at Camp 1 and ABC. Overnight in camp.
Provided everything goes as planned, our plan of action would be as follows:
- Rest & Acclimatization at Base Camp
- Cary Loads to ABC, return to Base Camp
- Rest Day
- Climb to temporary ABC (5800m)
- Climb to West Col, Sleep at Camp 1 (6135m)
- Climb to Camp 2 (6400m)
- Summit Attempt (7220m) return to Camp 1
- Spare Summit Day
- Return to Base Camp
Rest and Pack up day at the Baruntse Base Camp
Rest day as well as cleaning and drying of equipments. Also the day for some hot bath and shaving. Moreover, it's important to leave least footprints possible for the conservation of the Himalayan environment, We collect all garbage we produced and hand over to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee at Namche.
Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Labsta Base Camp - 5650m/18536 ft : 4-5 hrs
Hike along the rugged moraine towards Imja Valley. Enjoy the panoramic views of high Himalayan peaks including the Lhotse and Everest toward north-west. Camp at Amphulaptsa Base Camp and prepare for the next day's crossing of the Amphu Labsta pass. Amphu Laptse Pass at around 5845 m is one of the highest pass in Nepal, connecting the Hongu Valley with Imja Valley. 4-5 hours. (B,L,D)
Amphu Labsta Base Camp(South) to Amphu Labsta Base Camp(North) ,5300m/17385 ft : 5 - 6 hrs
An early morning climb. The climb involves steep sections on rock and ice. Cross the Amphu Lapcha pass. It's better to tackle the pass early in the morning when the snow is stable. Use climbing ropes wherever necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Labsta winds up in snow shelves. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine.
Amphu Labtsa Base Camp to Pangboche , 3930m/12893 ft : 6-7 hours
Walk downhill along the moraine to arrive at Chukung, the starting point for the Island Peak. The wilderness of the remote Hinku Valley gives in to the civilization of Khumbu Region. The Imja Khola joins the Dudh Koshi river a little above the Pangoche village. There is a famous gompa at Pangboche believed to have been the oldest in the Khumbu region.
Pangboche to Namche Bazaar, 3440m/11286 ft : 5 - 6 hrs
Descend out of the alpine dessert and back into landscapes of pine forests. The path leads to a steep uphill climb into Tengboche. Visit the Tenboche Monastery. Making a steep descent leads back to the Dudh Kosi river. The final steep climb traverses the hill side into Namche Bazaar.
Namche Bazaar to Lukla, 2800m/9186 ft : 6-7 hrs
A long steady downhill path from Namche leads to an impressive bridge called the Hillary Suspension Bridge high above the river. The trail afterwards is mostly an easy walk except for a few short uphill climbs. Cross the Bhote- Koshi River three times. The lower valley looks significantly greener after a month long journey. Celebrate concluding of the expedition at Lukla. Prepare for the next day morning flight to Kathmandu. (B,L,D)
Lukla Fly back to kathmandu
The flight time to Kathmandu are scheduled in the morning normally because Lukla suffers a lot of wind afternoon. Sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reasons. Fly back to Kathmandu and our guide will transfer you to hotel. You may have time to relax after long journey and take back your breath and rest at your hotel with ending your Himalayan expedition. In the evening, we will organize farewell dinner in the finest restaurant in Thamel. Celebrate with your friends and with Himalayan Glacier Team.
Free day in Kathmandu
Rest and relax after such long strenuous trip, so you might rest and relax at the hotel. The day is also reserved as a contingency day due to flight delays or other unforeseen conditions. You might be thinking to take some souvenirs for your family and friends. You may shop around for this also.
Today the journey comes to an end. There's nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and finally depart from Nepal. If departing, you'll be transferred to the International Airport for your departure flight to your onwards destination.
Recommended Previous Experience
Our Baruntse expeditions are led by professional and experienced mountaineers and guides supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Baruntse offers a perfect training opportunity for those aiming even higher. However, although Baruntse is not as technical as Ama Dablam, the difficult terrain and a very high altitude indicates that the climb would be a challenging one. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain preferably having prior experience on rock and ice climbing especially above 6,000 m. The oxygen level over 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. A high standard of physical and mental fitness is also necessary for the climb.
It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.For more information
Equipment and Check List
While packing for Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing certain equipments are essential.
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for this trip's comprehensive checklist.
Since you will be in the remote countryside, you will be experiencing the ‘early to bed and early to rise’ schedule. A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs. The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day’s experience with team members.
The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.
The post-monsoon season from October to January is considered the best time form Baruntse Expedition. The lower valleys observe pleasant days, and it varies from cool to very cold high in the Baruntse. The nights may be quite cold due to chill wind. The oxygen level around 7,000m is only 40% of what it is at the sea level. Temperatures may get as low as minus 25C above Camp 1. The possibility of bad weather such as snow, wind, and cloud should also be taken into account.
Our Baruntse expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers
who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.
Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.
Most of the expeditions to Baruntse are operated during the pre-monsoon season from March to May and the post-monsoon season from September to November. The autumn months of October and November are considered the most suitable time for Baruntse Expedition.
Trip Start Dates and Price
Why Expedition with Himalayan Glacier Trekking?
Going on any adventure trip will require a substantial sum of money be paid in advance. Yet trusting a company you have no prior experience with involves a risk. We, however, are a fully bonded trek operator authorized by Nepal Government, Tourism and Civil Aviation Department, Nepal Tourism Board, Industry Department, Company Registration Office, Nepal National Bank and the Taxation Office. We are also affiliated with such prestigious regulating bodies as NATTA, NMA, TAAN, and KEEP. Besides, that we have launched our new LLC office in the US also ensures that your payment is secure with us.
A detailed list of our registrations and licenses for operation:
Fair Price with Quality:
- Nepal Ministry of Industry, Office of Company Register, Reg No: 7964/054/055
- Nepal Ministry of Tourism, Department of Tourism, Reg No: 388/054
- Nepal Department of Small Cottage and Industries, Reg No: 1150/211
- Nepal Ministry of Finance, Department of Tax, PAN No: 500093863
- Tax Clearance Certificate No: 2362/065/066
- Central Bank Of Nepal, Nepal Rastra Bank, Department of Foreign Currency Exchange, Authorization No: 379/064/065
- North Carolina Secretary of State (United States of America), SOSID 113015
- Bank of America, 6611 Carmel Rd Charlotte, NC 28226
Service, quality and fair prices - is the motto of our business. The packages we have offer unbeatable value for money. But you don't have to take our word on it - we just ask our clients shop around to other adventure companies to try to find a similar package at a better price. However, we do not compromise on quality to cut down the costs. Our edge over other international operators is that we are a Nepal based business that allows us to keep our overheads to a minimum. So we can offer the same facilities as those provided by a Western company at literally a fraction of the price. That about 40% of our bookings come from repeat business proves our performance when it comes to client satisfaction.
Sustainable Operation Policies:
HGT observes responsible and sustainable tourism practices. The company works closely with all stakeholders including the local communities to protect and conserve natural environment. We ensure that all our adventure programs leave least possible carbon footprint. We are also aware of the corporate social responsibility, hence we maintain highest ethical and professional standards as well as transparency in our business practices.
Local and Experienced Mountain Leaders:
HGT employs and trains local staff so that the local communities benefit from our adventure operations. However, we never compromise on our high safety and quality standards. All of our leaders and guides are carefully selected based on their aptitude, experience, and leadership skills. Most of our guides have been continuously working with us for more than 10 years. Our guides are trained for remote emergencies and are well versed in local politics, culture and customs. Please check out the personal records of our guides who have scaled the Mt. Everest several times, including hundreds of other lesser peaks. Thus, we guarantee that all our guides, cooks, and other crews members are qualified and experienced professionals who make it sure that you're always safe, sound, and happy.
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