Ama Dablam Expedition-30 days

  • phakding
  • ama dablam
  • ama dablam
  • view of ama dablam
  • Ama Dablam
  • Ama Dablam
  • Ama Dablam

Trip Introduction

Popularly known as the 'Matterhorn of the Himalaya', the overwhelming ice-coated granite pyramid of Ama Dablam dominates the sky above the trekker's trail to the Everest Base Camp. The mountain derives its name from the glacier lying on its Southwest face. The glacier looks like a jewel box hanging on the neck of the mountain, hence the name Ama Dablam, literally meaning 'The Mother's Jewel Box'. Interestingly, when a team led by Edmund Hillary scaled the mountain for the first time, Nepal's King nearly imprisoned Hillary for climbing the sacred Ama Dablam without permission.

The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge, the same route followed by Ward (UK), Bishop (USA) and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers varied and sustained climb with reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points. The climb is moderate up to Camp 1, then it gets challenging up along the narrow granite ridge. Negotiating pitches of steep ice and snow slopes, the route gets more technical from Camp 2.  From Camp 3, skirt around the hanging glacier or the Dablam, cross snow arete (A sharp ridge) and bergschrund(A gap or crevasse at the edge) between ice cliffs, and scale the summit.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m/4,428ft)
Upon our arrival at the Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu, we will be greeted by a representative from Himalayan Glacier who will take us to Hotel Shanker or another hotel of a similar category. After checking in, we may take a rest or visit Himalayan Glacier’s office. In the evening there will be a welcome dinner in a traditional Nepali Restaurant where we will be able to enjoy authentic Nepali cuisine with a brief cultural program. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Included meals:D
Day 02: Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Preparation
Today after breakfast, we start a guided tour to several of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu which are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. We visit the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the famous 'Monkey Temple' (Swayambhunath) and Buddhist shrine (Bouddhanath), which is also one of the largest stupas in the world. After the tour, we get our equipment checked by our climbing leader, get introduced to fellow participants, and discuss our trip at Himalayan Glacier’s office. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Included meals:B
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,184ft) then trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek
After breakfast, we will be taken to the domestic terminal of TIA for an early morning flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet our crew members and after some packing and preparation, we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities, we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery. Overnight in Phakding.
Included meals:BLD
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 5-6 hours
After breakfast we walk through beautiful pine forests and then along Dudh Koshi River ending our nature-filled journey at Namche Bazaar. After walking for almost over an hour, we come across the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) on our right and also experience the serenity of pine, fir and juniper forests throughout our journey. If the weather is clear, we may even catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We continue walking until we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. This day we cross five suspension bridges, the last one also known as the Hillary Bridge being the highest. It is an uphill walk from Hillary Bridge to Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Included meals:BLD
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day

This is the day set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day. We can either stroll around Namche’s quaint villages or come in contact with the Sherpa people and their rich culture, or we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region.

For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. While in the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!). Overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Included meals:BLD
Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Debuche
We trek further along the Everest route and pass through beautiful villages and cross the Dudh Koshi River while also enjoying magnificent views of the Himalayan peaks along the way like Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. After ascending on a steep trail we reach the Tengboche Monastery and spend some time there. Later we descend to Debuche to spend the night.
Included meals:BLD
Day 07: Trek to Pheriche (4,300m)
We hike to another village called Pangboche on our way to Pheriche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the ImjaTse river flowing through the wide fertile valley.From here, we continue further up towards Pheriche, another beautiful village for an overnight stay.
Included meals:BLD
Day 08: Acclimatization above Pheriche
We have optimum number of acclimatization days to minimize the chances of anyone being affected by AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Today we climb a terrain above the Pheriche village as it is well suited to give us a hiking experience in a cold condition. We walk up a slope overlooking the high Himalayan valleys. Overnight in Pheriche.
Included meals:BLD
Day 09: Pheriche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4570m/15000ft)
We begin by trekking back to Pangboche and crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next, we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp is a large open grassy area where we will be spending the rest of the day for acclimatization. Overnight at Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Included meals:BLD
Day 10: Acclimatization and Pre-climb training at Ama Dablam Base Camp
Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gear such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. We strongly believe that the training experience will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience.
Included meals:BLD
Day 11-25: Ascending and Descending of Ama Dablam (6856m/22488ft)
From the Ama Dablam Base Camp we move further up to Camp 1 at 5,700m (17,400 ft) along the standard route. Generally, one night is spent at Camp1for acclimatization and before returning to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit. There are three camps above the base camp before reaching the summit. The ascent from Base Camp to Camp1 is technically challenging. From Camp 1, we follow existing fixed lines and then establish new ropes wherever necessary both for ascent and descent. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is comprised of mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in certain places. The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is relatively less technical. After summiting the peak, we return back to the base camp.
Included meals:BLD
Day 26-27: Trek to Lukla
On this day, our group treks back to Tengboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding and then finally arriving at Lukla.
Included meals:BLD
Day 28: Fly to Kathmandu
We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Island peak. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Included meals:BD
Day 29: Leisure day in Kathmandu
This is a reserve day to accommodate any possible delay in the Lukla to Kathmandu flight. If the flight is as scheduled, we spend the day enjoying Kathmandu's delights. If there is someplace we wish to visit during our stay in Kathmandu, we may do that today or we can do some souvenir shopping. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Included meals:B
Day 30: Final Departure
Your adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Himalayan Glacier will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.
Included meals:B
Important Note :
Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

What Is Included

  • All airport/hotel transfers
  • Four nights in 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Round trip flight Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu with 30KG cargo per climber
  • All trekking and Ama Dablam climbing permit fees
  • Liaison officer and all his expenses
  • Experienced climbing Sherpa (s) for the group
  • Trekking and teahouse arrangements to/from Ama Dablam Base Camp and full board basis at Base Camp
  • Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp
  • All group camping  equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chair and kitchen utensils etc
  • Single tent for use at the  Base Camp (with foam mattress provided)
  • Base Camp  Sherpa (s)  and Cook crew
  • Insurance for all Nepalese staffs
  • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice screws, rock, and snow anchor protection etc
  • Walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etc.
  • Solar charging at Base Camp
  • Necessary Porter or Yaks support from Lukla to and from Base Camp
  • Emergency equipment like medical oxygen, Gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits etc
  • High-altitude camp equipment and supplies, and Sherpa support on summit day
  • Climbing Sherpa will establish camps, carry group equipment (including sleeping bags and pads), establish the route, etc
  • Porterage of group equipment to Advance Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • All government taxes and agency service charge

What Is Not Included

  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment
  • International roundtrip airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu(and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain(due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Excess baggage charges if you have more than 30KG luggage
  • Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and passport photographs)
  • Tips for Climbing Guides and other staffs
  • Climbing Sherpa summit bonus
  • Personal communications (Satellite phone, phone, fax, email)
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, bottle water, shower, heater, etc.)
  • Personal Climbing Sherpa (must be arranged before the expedition)
  • Porterage of personal equipment to beyond Base Camp
  • Nepal Custom Duties
  • Personal travel /medical/cancellation/rescue insurance
  • Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
  • Helicopter or charter flight

Meals

We provide all camping equipment and gear, including tents, dining, toilet, and Kitchen tents. At base camp we have a large mess tent equipped with all necessary kitchen gadgets including stoves, tables and chairs. Meals are prepared by our trained and experienced expedition cooks. We make it sure that the food we provide is hygienic and at the same time suits your palate. Please let us know if you have any special food requirements.

We offer all varieties of food including continental and local Nepali/Tibetan items. Breakfast includes porridge, egg, bread, etc. Some of the items in the lunch include rice, lentils, beans, green vegetables, chapattis, bread, and tinned meat and fish items. Fresh or tinned fruit and tea or coffees make the desserts. For the main meal, you can choose your own menu - either local or western varieties. Local varieties include from the local Dal Bhat, yak stew, momo to the western burghers, pastas, sandwiches, and pizzas.

During the actual mountain climbing, we mostly use dry or dehydrated foods, including chocolate, cheese, nuts, and muesli items.

Health and Experience Requirements

Our Ama Dablam expeditions are led by professional and experienced mountaineers and guides supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Besides, there are fixed ropes up to the summit that prove helpful on the difficult terrain. Still, as the grade 5D indicates, the climb would be a challenging one. The climbers need to feel confident and comfortable ascending or descending on fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. Moreover, we recommend climbers to have prior experience on rock and ice climbing especially above 6,000 m. A high standard of physical and mental fitness is also necessary for the climb.

Travel Insurance

It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.For more information

Equipment and Packing List

While packing for Ama Dablam Expedition certain equipments are essential. Please Click here for this trip's comprehensive checklist.

Trekking Day

Since you will be in the remote countryside area, you will be experiencing the ‘early to bed and early to rise’ schedule. A typical trekking day starts at around 6 or 7 am. Enjoy the hearty breakfast and begin trekking. Carry your pack containing personal items you need for the day. The porters and yaks carry all the loads. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the natives, and take photographs. The lunch time depends upon the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Generally you stop for lunch after about 3 hours of walking. The lunch hour also helps in acclimatization. The aim would be to reach next stop by the sunset. After reaching the overnight stay point, the crew members fix the tents. You may relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a pleasure walk around the camp site. The dinner would be ready around 7 PM. Enjoy the dinner while sharing the day’s experience with team members.

Climbing Day

The climbing itinerary may vary according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day involves a steady climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch rest and relax, there is a climb of 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in climbing itinerary is necessary as people climb at their own pace and respond individually to the stresses of climbing. We ensure the ratio of climbers and Sherpa guides focusing on high safety measures so that each individual climber is able to progress at their own rate.

The Climb

Base Camp to Camp 1 (4,570m to 5,700m):

The Ama Dablam Base Camp is a broad, grassy plain at an altitude of 4,570m/14988ft. Camp 1 lies at 5,700m/18696ft. So, it’s about 1000m long walk from the Base Camp to Camp 1. Cimb up along a morainal gravel ridge slope. Then cross a boulder field on the South-West ridge. There is a stream with fresh water so the place is also sometimes used as advanced base camp. It takes about 5-6 hours to get to Camp 1 which is perched on a steep rocky area. Generally, one night is spent at camp 1 for acclimatization and then returning to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit.

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m):

The ascent from Camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical part of the expedition. Cross the exciting granites slabs and snowy patches. The most challenging part is the rock tower, also called Yellow Tower, just before Camp 2. The climb between Camp 1 and the Yellow Tower is mostly class 3-4. Follow existing fixed lines, the Sherpas fix new ropes wherever necessary. Camp 2 is a narrow exposed area atop a rock pillar therefore it’s better to get informed if there is already any group staying at Camp 2. Takes about 4-5 hrs.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,400m):

Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves climbing on the steep ridge over the 70-degree couloir. The intimidating rock wall of the Grey Tower tests your stamina. Put on your crampons in order to climb a steep pitch of rock and ice. Better make use of your jumar as backup for safety. Cross the snow and ice with patches of bare rock at places leading a knife-edge, crested with snow, and overhung on both sides - the Mushroom Ridge. The Mushroom ridge links the mixed terrain on the South-West ridge below to the snowy field above of the summit. It takes about 3-4 hours from Camp 2 to Camp 3.

Camp 3 to Summit (6856m):

Camp 3 lies on a relatively flat snow field just above the big snow Mushroom Ridge. The summit climb is very cold and exposed. The route is mostly straight up but comparatively less technical than before. The climb is about a 3-4 hours climb up then about 3 hours down. The Sherpas set up fixed ropes wherever necessary. Continue up the steep snow slopes. Haul yourself up the near vertical ice-pitch. On a clear dry day, the summit looks awesome. Marvel at the breathtaking views of the Everest, Lhotse and Makalu unfolding before your eyes. Stay at camp 3 for the night and return to base camp the following day.

Weather

The post-monsoon season from October to January is considered the best time form Ama Dablam Expedition. The lower valleys observe pleasant days, and it varies from cool to very cold high in the Ama Dablam. The nights may be quite cold due to chill wind. Temperatures may get as low as minus 25C above Camp 1.

Leader(s) and Staff Arrangements

Our Ama Dablam expeditions are led by experienced and professional mountaineers and guides who have scaled the mountain several times supported by other crew members and all the necessary logistics for the expedition. Not only in terms of qualification, but we also make it sure that our leaders have proven track of record in climbing high altitude mountains. The number of guides is chosen according to the team size to maximize every individual climber’s chance of making it to the summit without compromising the safety aspect. Our expedition leaders are also equipped with the expertise in handling altitude related problems including acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. The crew members are experts in setting up tents and camps, melting snow on the route, cooking, and other daily needs.

Team Composition

Team composition is important to ensure safety and comfort of the climbers. We observe high safety standards, therefore, for 2 International Climbers, we assign:
  • HGT Accredited Climbing Leader
  • High Altitudes Assistance Sherpa
  • Cook
  • Base Camp Assistance and other necessary trek crew such Porters, Yaks and Yak man
  • Because of our high safety standards, team members would be added as per the number of international climbers.

Best Season

Most of the expeditions to Ama Dablam are operated during the pre and post monsoon seasons. However, we also operate the expedition in early winter for those who wish to avoid the high traffic during the pre and post monsoon seasons.

Trip Start Dates and Price

Check available trip start dates and price for Ama Dablam Expedition. If the given date is not favorable then please contact us and we will happily customize your trip on dates more appropriate for you.

Additional Information

Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email. If you want to talk to us directly feel free to call us at: 00977-98510-55684

Price From

$ 7590 USD

Trip Code

HGTNP-0106
  • Activities: Climbing and Expedition
  • Trip Duration:30 Days
  • Trip Grade:5D
  • Altitude:6856m/22488ft
  • Meals:All meals included
  • Group Size: 2-15 people
 
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