Annapurna Trekking

I was prepared to not like Kathmandu. I assumed it would be a typical thirdworld polluted, overcrowded, noisy, crime riddled city with a few UNESCO World Heritage sites to explore. My assumption was mostly right, but one quickly becomes intoxicated with sensory overload in this incredible city. Three days was barely enough to scratch the surface of this endlessly fascinating cultural maze of a place. Already I long to return to Boudhnath on a pilgrimage to once again feel the prayer wheels spin under my fingers, light a butter lamp, and circumnavigate the dome on the prayer flagdecked street.

 

We departed Kathmandu and after a 6 hour Hail Mary bus ride, a night in picturesque Pokhara, rendezvousing with Gopal, our shy porter, we finally arrived in Naya Pul, the starting point of our Annapurna trek! Here, throngs of trekkers, guides, and porters were hurriedly packing and doublechecking gear. A short hike (just a week prior, it had been only a path; now, civilization was encroaching with a gravel road bed) and we were in Birethanti, “Check Point Charley” if you will. All people trekking within the Annapurna Conservation Area Project have to purchase a TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System) and register at the various check points. There are multiple routes and treks one can chose in the Annapurna Circuit region. Routes and treks are based on budget, time available, and fitness level. We chose the Annapurna Sanctuary route to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) as we wanted to explore the ethnic culture of the communities along the way, enjoy the flora and fauna of the sub tropical forests and alpine regions, while maintaining a constant panoramic view. Bill and I also decided that we wanted to trek by ourselves, and not join a larger group. Many people arrive in Kathmandu and trek alone, or arrange for a guide and/or porter once they arrive. Our choice was easy. Himalayan Glacier Trekking a highly rated outfitter has a US representative: Tony Monaco, a CMC member in Charlotte. Our itinerary was established according to our trekking ideas and our pre and post trek plans. One couldn’t ask for a better executed trip. People ask how to “train” for trekking in the Himalayas. In reflection, one should hop on a treadmill set at the highest tension for a couple of hours, then hike from Mount Mitchell to Deep Gap and back, double the altitude, and repeat daily for a few weeks. If one doesn’t follow this regimen, then pack some extra strength Tylenol. We were not prepared for the miles and miles of “steps”; it’s a trail building marvel, but a hiker’s pain in the quads and hamstrings.

Other treks/hikes that we have done around the globe were either wilderness camping or staying in a lodge of some sort. While trekking the Annapurnas we chose to stay in tea houses that were available in the a few villages scattered along the route. The operative word is “available.” Every day, there is a mad scramble in the afternoon to secure lodging. Lodging can only be booked “the day of”…and there may only be 3 lodges with 8 or so rooms in a given community. There may be 2, 3, or 4 hours of “extra” hiking if a room is not secured early in the day. Or, sleeping arrangements can get rather creative! Rooms are typically spartan with twin cots and a lock for the door. Toilets are Asian style and unisex. Showers, if available, are for a fee. Hot water, if available, is solar heated. The water in Nepal is highly polluted. The Modi Khola River (originating at the Annapurna Glacier) provides 95% of Nepal’s drinking water. The water supply to villages is medieval … a 1 ¼ inch PVC pipe runs from village to village, splicing home to home, and running (or not) nonstop. We observed the pipe strung through the jungle, tree to tree, lashed in place with bamboo “thread”. After several days, hygiene and water purification become tedious but necessary.

Before you dismiss considering a trek of this nature, I haven’t discussed one of the most intriguing elements: the people one meets along the way! There is of course ample opportunity to meet folks along the trail, stopping for tea, lunch, a break, or stopping to eat/sleep for the day. (People often commented on our CMC hats or AT volunteer patches on our packs.) Once your trekking is done for the day, people gather in the communal dining room. One’s personal space dissolves. We gravitated like magnets to anyone who looked remotely 60ish.

The higher theelevation, the sparser the crowd, the more likely we would meet up with people we met earlier on the trail. Rooms are very inexpensive ($3.50 a night), but require buying meals at the lodge. Thedining room tables typically had a wool blanket tacked along the sides; there was also a propane heater under the table which was lit at night. Everyone (gladly) paid 100 rupees ($1.25) to pull their boots off and stick their feet under the table, and pull the blanket over their lap. What warmth! We sat there for hours, chatting about the day’s trek, or writing in journals, eating, drinking, and playing cards. We identified people by their given name, or code names (Not AT trail names, but our personal way of identifying people). For example, “the Poles” were a hearty group that kept us honest. On our second day, Bill and I sat at the dining room table quite smug in the fact that we had trekked 14 hours in 2 days and were on our “track” timewise.

The Poles pulled in that night after trekking the same distance in ONE 12 hour day! They proceeded to each order a pint of rum, just as a “warm up” before their “real” drinking began. We were reminded of our time years ago hiking in the Bieszczady Mountains tracking Red deer with a Polish guide. We cursed him soundly under our breath, as we saw him in the distance rolling a cigarette, casually smoking, waiting for us, then striding off and leaving us again to trot to catch up to him. What a hearty lot, the Poles we were gladdened every timed we met up with them. At the same time, a young Spanish graduate student arrived. She was about to collapse, crying, gasping for breath. All the guides quickly came to her “rescue” as if they were the resident EMTs. What histrionics! We giggled at her demonstrativeness. We were not surprised that “La Princessa” never reached ABC summit. Another group, “the Taiwanese”, strode up and down the mountains; in one hand they held an IPad, in the other a bottle of water. Enough said. “California” and “Minnesota” were more or less our age. Minnesota made the summit, California did not. Mrs. California took a nasty spill at a creek crossing, ripping her knee. Meeting them at an afternoon rest stop, we decided to stay put, and they pushed on despite the weather that was quickly disintegrating. Drizzle turned to sleet with a fierce wind. (CA was sick in bed for 2 days and turned back.) Another couple we met, a bubbly Irish pair, had already made it to Everest Base Camp and now they were trekking to Annapurna Base Camp! “The Irish” were simply so thrilled to have sunshine that they would have kept trekking around the globe. A young Finnish couple smoked marijuana joints as fast as they could roll them. “The Finns” didn’t talk, just smiled. One quickly obtains the idea of “life” on the Circuit.

A guide is not requisite to trek in Annapurna. However, we found that having one enriched our experience immensely. Basu was: a walking GPS, concierge service by phoning ahead for a nightly room, our gastronomical advisor who deciphered our menus, a constant natural history/cultural educator, a musician playing his bamboo flute, our “medic”, and most importantly, a friend. It is our opinion that the Nepalese government needs to continue to strive to provide for the wellbeing of the guides and porters who make these Himalayan treks possible. The trekking season is brief, maybe a total of 34 months of every year; finding other employment for the rest of the year is difficult. The trail led us through the Modi Khola valley, filled with rice paddies, fields of quinoa, turmeric, corn, squash, and cabbages. We shared the path with trains of mules transporting goods between villages, water buffalo, goats, sheep,  porters, and fellow trekkers. Passing through dense bamboo and hardwood forests, we arrived at Ghorepani. Our $3.00 a night room had a 5Star view of Machhapuchhre, Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and the Annapurnas! At 4:30 in the morning,wearing our headlamps and woolies, we climbed another 2,000 feet to Poon Hill for one of the most spectacular sunrise viewpoint in all of the Himalayan Range.

A steep descent, a steep ascent, and we arrived in beautiful Chhomrong, located on the lap of the Annapurna massif. We laid in bed that night with the moon shining on Machhapuchhre. We cracked open the window and breathed the frosty air. I declared that it just might be as close to heaven as we will ever get. The stars were floating just a fingertip away. Little did I know that Chhomrong was a turning point, literally and figuratively, for trekkers. This was the last village that supplies and any sort of luxury items (like toilet paper) could be purchased. The rest of the journey would pass by a few tea houses only no more villages with inhabitants, livestock, mule trains etc. The trail was too steep and treacherous; conditions are too harsh to travel/ live at the higher elevations. 2/3 of trekkers exited this section of the trail to loop to the lower elevations. In two weeks we viewed more waterfalls than the year spent hiking to the 100 on the CMC Waterfall Challenge. The Nepalese don’t bother to name any of them as there are so many. Most of the peaks aren’t named either; if they aren’t snow covered year round they are not “worthy” of a name. It was difficult for our guide to believe that Bill and I lived in the oldest mountain range in the world with such “low” peaks, and yet here we were in the youngest mountain range, and it contained 8 of the globe’s highest peaks. As the vegetation disappeared, our solitude in the wilderness became more obvious. We passed makeshift shrines built to honor individuals who perished in avalanches. Twice, helicopters churned through the canyon to attempt a rescue at ABC. Our attention remained riveted on the views of majestic Machhapuchhre. It is the one virginal mountain in the Himalayan range; the Nepalese government refuses to allow climbing on it. At 13,000 feet elevation, sleeping soundly became difficult. Besides the thinner air, it was cold. I tucked my batteries in my sleeping bag at night. I would have traded Bill for a pair of yak wool slippers. Our laundered clothes wouldn’t dry. The thought of taking our clothes off, much less having a cold shower, kept us in the same apparel.

We decided against stopping at Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) for the night and trekked another 2 ½ hours to ABC. The trail between MBC and ABC is a strenuous path that leads right into the frozen heart of the Annapurna range. This is an unparalleled mountain experience with unparalleled views. We arrived at Base Camp just before the fog rolled in shrouding anything more than a foot in front of us. As luck would have it, the Poles arrived at our lodge within a half hour. We spent the evening eating bowls of garlic soup (supposedly good for altitude sickness; we didn’t experience any, so perhaps the soup works!) and eating some of the best pizza we have ever eaten.

Before dawn we trundled out for a position to watch as dawn seared the tips of the frozen peaks. I accidentally dropped my headlamp. There was a chorus of gasps as we listened to it clatter hundreds of feet down the mountain. I took a step back from edge, and firmly planted my feet. Red and gold commenced to etch across the amphitheater of rock and ice. The staggering scale of the mountains was all but overwhelming. Lost in our thoughts, we silently hung a prayer flag, and then slowly, savoring the moment, turned toward lower elevation.

First posted on CMC (CarolinaMountainClub.org) eNews March 2013 by Ann H

Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Again (this is my second trip with Himalayan Glacier) I had an amazing experience with Himalayan Glacier. Sundar is a great guide and I enjoyed the flexibility in my trip. Chandra was able to go ahead in the morning to find a good place to stay. The guesthouses and hotels chosen were all comfortable and the food was always fresh and good. The communication was great, and I was well taken care of. Pick ups, flights etc, where always on time. Also I was lucky to have met so many other inspiring people on the track which was a bonus. The highlight of the trip was playing volleyball at 4130m with the guides and porters. I enjoy the Himalayas a lot and feel at ease when I am in the mountains. Thank you for making my trip special, hope to see you again soon

 

 

Bigi Cameron
Germany

Wonderful trek EBC via Gokyo with Himalayan Glacier

Our trip with Himalayan Glacier was a great experience.   I did a great deal of research on trekking companies and decided on Himalayan Glacier due to very positive reviews, an excellent website, very prompt/informative answers to my questions, ability to do custom itineraries and reasonable rates.  I also liked the fact that my money was going towards employing a Nepalese staff as tourism is extremely important to the economy of Nepal.

Trip highlights included going to Everest Base Camp, watching sunset on Everest from Kala Patthar and hiking over Cho La Pass. We had limited days in Nepal and therefore did a custom trip at a faster than normal pace. Santa, our guide, was very flexible to our planned itinerary, but also adamant about acclimating properly. We worked out an itinerary that was very satisfactory and everyone stayed healthy at high altitude.

I want to say thanks to our guide Santa.   He did an outstanding job.  He set up reservations for our lodges, took us to eat at places with safe food for weak western stomachs and kept us on track.   Surprisingly Santa’s cell phone worked at most places along the trek.  He used his cell phone to confirm lodge reservations, check on weather and even order meals for us before arriving in a village.   There are few trail signs in this region.   I consider myself pretty  good and route finding, but was very glad we had Santa to keep us on track as there are many spurs off the normal path that would have been confusing.

A big thank you to our porter Kesav as well.  We did some long days on the trail to stay on our aggressive schedule.   Kasav carried a heavy load, as normal, on these days, never once complaining and always with a smile on his face.   He also watched after us to make sure we were safe.

Having a guide and porter was extremely helpful.   I had thought about doing the trek independently.   Sounder minds prevailed, however (my wife).    I quickly found a trekking company to be very helpful.   Our guide and porter took care of us.   Everything from picking us up at the airport to planning every detail of our trip.   Flying from Kathmandu to Lukla is not easy.   Flights are constantly delayed due to weather.   Having a guide to help maneuver the complex system can prove very valuable.  You stand a much better chance of keeping your schedule on track when someone is helping who has knowledge of the flight system and friends in the right places.  However, even with this help, I recommend having a couple extra days on each side of your trip, so you can complete your trek and make your international flight on time.

My wife and I found the Himalayan Glacier staff to be very professional.   There were no hidden costs and our itinerary was very well detailed.  The staff went over and beyond expectations to make sure we had a fun and safe trip.

What an incredible journey!  The Himalaya are truly magnificent.  Just when you think you have seen the highlight of the trip around the corner is something even more amazing.   We found the Nepalese people to be very friendly and kind.  We will be back.

The Blairs

Everest Base Camp Trek

Trekking to the Everest base camp in Nepal with Himalayan Glacier Trekking was an incredible experience. They were very helpful before the trip, met us at the airport, got us settled in, and made us feel like valued guests the entire time.

I was very impressed with the quality and professionalism of their entire staff including guides who were all excellent. They are very focused on their clients and will do whatever they can to make sure you have an enjoyable and successful trip. That total commitment to their guests was demonstrated when upon seeing that most in our group were over 60 they shuffled schedules to give us one of their most experienced guides. They went out of their way to insure we safely completed our goal of trekking to Everest base camp.

This is not a cut rate trekking agency. Himalayan Glacier Trekking has excellent customer service. Accommodations in Kathmandu were above average and they provided the most comfortable accommodations available during the trek. Other companies try to offer lower prices by cutting costs wherever they can but I appreciated the extra care and comfort provided by Himalayan Glacier Trekking.

Our guide Devraj Giri and assistant guide Chitra took excellent care of us. They were constantly on the lookout for our wellbeing and comfort. Their goal was to make sure we were healthy, comfortable, and successfully made it to Everest base camp. Chitra did an amazing job of keeping a steady slow pace that we could all manage, Giri made sure we were healthy and provided any medication we needed for altitude or tummy problems. Giri handled every detail along the way so all we had to do was enjoy the scenery. At the tea houses each day Giri checked on the kitchen staff to make sure our meals were properly prepared, and when the dining room stove was lit they somehow made sure we all had a seat around the fire.

I can highly recommend Himalayan Glacier Trekking. Their focus on customer service is amazing.

Annapurna Circuit Trek Review

As I indicated before, you did an exceptional job of turning our trip around. We had planned on Everest Base Camp (EBC), but planes could not land in Lukla for about 7 days. We had to make a decision whether to wait for EBC, or transfer all energy and thoughts into Annapurna. Bertie and I chose Annapurna Circuit, and the rest of the trekkers who were assigned in our group went with us. Amazingly, Naba was able to provide an extra guide (Hira, for Bertie and me) and necessary porters for Annapurna Circuit. Luckily we had booked with HGT, a substantial trekking firm, and Naba was able to turn everything around from EBC to Annapurna Circuit in a very short period of time.

Our experience in Nepal, and especially Annapurna Circuit was a wonderful success and an endearing experience.

I don’t think anything would have made this trip better than it was. Hira, our guide, was excellent and astute to our needs, and made the trek absolutely wonderful. Pasuram, our porter, was a “Rock Star Porter” who was personable and just awesome. Our route was well planned, and when we got ahead of schedule, Hira was able to call by mobile phone and adjust reservations. Just amazing.

I hope to return in 2014 and would not mind a repeat on Annapurna Circuit, adding a few things that we did not have time to do. I would want to be in a trekking group with Hira, for sure.

I have been in email contact with the 3 Brazilians who were part of our trekking group. They absolutely felt Annapurna Circuit was the best for this year. And because HGT did such a good job in rescheduling from EBC, I am sure they will plan their return to EBC in 5 years with HGT. Good PR for you. Also, Jen and Steve (from NYC) also felt that doing Annapurna Circuit was the best thing for this year, and I know they will also return to do EBC and will book again with HGT. Naba did a great job for all of us who had planned on EBC this year.

Thank you. You have all my confidence for the best experience in Nepal. Naba has suggested Tibet. I love Nepal – but Tibet would be something new. But I need the trekking; I leave Nepal feeling happy and healthy. A jeep tour just would not do that.

Happy Holidays from the States!

Paula Lutz

Everest Base Camp Trek

It was a pleasure to met you and your manager in Kathmandu. I am very impressed with your good service during the trekking. Everything was perfect for me. Mainly the kindling assistance of guide Hom Nath and porters Subas and Suman. Accommodations and food were good level. Even in situation not expected like bad weather in Lukla, it was well resolved. I will recommend your company to my friends and I hope I will come back to make other trip with you.

Regards,
João Teles de Pontes Filho
Gerente Plan. Energético e Mercado

October 2012 EBC via Gokyo Lakes

My husband and I have just returned from one of the most remarkable travel experiences we have had as of yet. Every year for our anniversary we go somewhere new according to the alphabet, and this year was Nepal for “N”. My love of the mountains fueled the decision to have the chance to see the biggest mountains in the world. But being from the southern United States, our high altitude experience was very limited to say the least. Also, a two week plus trek would be the longest we had done. I did not need to worry.
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Everest Base Camp Trek

I wanted to thank you both and congratulate you on the outstanding staff you have. Homanth was a great guide. He was punctual at the airport, took care of everything to get us set up and provided necessary guidance along the trail. He has a seemingly endless smile and positive attitude which were well appreciated and sometimes much needed. As I know you are aware, the plane crash took place on the 5th morning of our trek and it was our airplane. I was shaken by the experience and all my pent up concerns came flooding back. Emotionally it was difficult to imagine getting on a plane to fly out of Lukla after that. Thus besides the 4 day weather hold that preceded our return to Lukla I also had that in the back of my mind and was willing to pay almost ANYTHING to get me out of there in a helicopter. Naba, you and Homanth tried your best to accommodate and I sincerely appreciate it. And the fact that you eventually got us a good airplane out of Lukla at the last possible instant that day was also something for which I will be eternally grateful.

All that said, my time wasn’t spent entirely worrying about the return trip. I greatly enjoyed the trek itself and continue to be awestruck at what I saw and experienced. I was nearly in tears when I finally reached Kala Patthar on a glorious morning. It was beyond my wildest dreams in terms of what it felt like standing there.
As for your porters, I have said this to everyone here who has asked me about my trek…. I am astonished at the spirit, stamina and strength of the people of the Khumbu. Amazing, tireless workers who seem to relish each day without complaint. Photos of people carrying what amounts to about two large wooden DOORS on their backs up a steep slope have people here wondering if they’d be able to do that for even a few feet! Subas and Suman were super-human, from my vantage point. Not only because of the loads they carried and the ease with which they did the tasks but also the smiles and the service they provided when we were all simply exhausted. Wow. That will remain a lasting image in my mind beyond the many awe-inspiring views.

Thank you again both for your assistance. Tony, you are a great asset to HG as you were always quick to provide information and answer my questions. Naba, you made us feel welcome and valued as clients.

Sincerely,
Mark Richardson
Petaluma, California, USA

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