Mera Peak Climbing

Short Peak Climbing in Nepal

Home to eight of the ten tallest peaks in the world, it is only apt that Nepal is called ‘the Home of the Gods’. Conquering the majestic Himalayas can be a far-away dream of a lifetime to some while it could simply be an extreme sport, an exhilarating pursuit that offers the ultimate challenge of strength, endurance, and sacrifice for others. For those who harbor an interest in the Himalayan climb, these Short-Peak Climbing will steer beginners through their first ascent:

Island Peak


Island peak is the most popular peak as it offers all novice climbers and trekkers an exhilarating climbing experience and is often considered as the first step for any climbers prior to their summit attempt of giant peaks in the Himalaya. Island Peak not only provides an enjoyable climb but also offers some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region.
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10 best Mera Peak climbing facts

Mera Peak (6,461m), an exciting and scenically stunning mountain, is the popular and highest trekking peak in Nepal at Khumbu Valley. Situated on the edge of famous Khumbu Region and dominated by Mt. Everest, climbing Mera peak is an opportunity to all the adventure seekers who are physically fit. Climbing Mera Peak through Amphu Lapcha Pass offers you a lifetime adventure experience in Nepal. The 10 best Mera Peak climbing facts are shown below.

Mera Peak
Mera Peak


  1. Mera Peak is one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal. Mera Peak Climbing trip unleash an opportunity to all the experience trekkers and amateur climbers who dream and dare to stand on the Himalayan summit with a sense of great achievement.
  2. Mera Peak has 3 distinct summits and they are North Mera Peak (6,476m/21,240 ft), Central Mera Peak (6,461m/ 21,190 ft), and South Mera Peak (6064m/ 19890 ft). Generally trekkers climb to Mera Central although the highest one is Mera North. Due to huge crevasses and glacial changes happening there in the route to Mera North, it is safe to climb Mera Central
  3. The major peaks observable from Mera peak include Mt. Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Nuptse (7855m) and Chamlang (7319m) amongst many others.
  4. Mera Peak stands to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas.
  5. J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route. The honor of being the first to reach the true summit goes to the Frenchmen Marcel Jolly, G Baus and L Honills, who climbed Mera North in 1975. There are many other routes to the peak, but none of them are easy. Some of them require crossing very high and difficult passes. The path goes through the spotless Rhododendron, oak, silver fir, birch and Jennifer’s forest. On the way, trekkers can see Meera Glacier, beautiful alpine lake and traditional Sherpa villages of the Solukhumbu.
  6. Mera Peak climbing begins following a short and exciting flight to the mountain airstrip of Lukla and after continuous trek for days through the high and lovely valleys travelers get to the area of Mera. Although physically very demanding on account of the altitude, the climb on Mera Peak is not technically difficult as ascending snow slopes rarely exceed 40 degrees. The only qualification trekkers need to ascend Mera peak is they have to be physically fit and have an extrovert sense of adventure.
  7. Mera Peak has some crevasses around, and the way can be long and challenging. The trip from Mera La to the summit is steady with a spectacular mountain vista of the Eastern Nepal Himalayas.
  8. The ascend of Mera Peak is made from the Mera La pass (5415m) on the Northern Face, which joins the valley of Hongu to the Hinku valley. Mera Peak expands to the South of Everest and dominates the attractive and remote valleys of Hinku and Hongu of that region.
  9. Mera Peak offers a panoramic view of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse in the east and the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam and Kangtega to the west. Everest can be viewed to the north over the massive unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge. Under favorable conditions, it is possible to climb the peak and descend back on the same day.
  10. As there are no lodges in either the Hinku or Hongu valleys, adventure  trekkers need to be self-contained which makes it even more attractive to those in search of mountaineering adventure.

Mera Peak Climbing

I have no complaints about the trek.I do not expect “perfection” from organisers or clients-but as long as its 90% good,then the trip will be a success.

The key positive:

The quality of the guide and the porters (as well as their seamless interaction) in terms of helpfulness and mountain experience, always focusing on the objective of the client and never exhibiting negative attitude.This was awesome.

Mera Peak Climbing
Mera Peak Climbing

The observation:
The equipment used even by the experienced guides,is sometimes lacking in standard.With a European perspective,there were places I would expect more security (ropes/crampons etc) but I assume this is a cultural thing in Nepal.Each region have different approaches to low and high risk scenarios.

This was probably a result of my stomach not being in good shape,but I would have hoped for a slightly more diverse menu.Ultimately,everything tasted the same-and I know this is partly due to altitude,boiling temperature,difficulty of transportation etc- but compared to treks in Latin America- there seems to be less focus on counting carbs/protein/energy etc.I do not think this was unique to the chef,who did a very good job in challenging conditions.

Thanks also to you for responding very well to questions from impatient clients etc and of course to the country of Nepal for offering such amazing scenery and hospitality.

I am going to Argentina in February and hope to be back to Nepal next October with skies.

We shot a very funny little film on the top of Mera Peak and he wanted to see it.I have just placed it on YOUTUBE and you can all see it.

The link is:

Nepal: A Travel Hub in South Asia

Nepal is increasingly becoming a travel, trek and meeting hub in the South Asia region. After ending of the 10 years Civil War, Nepal has become even more popular travel destination. A recent Global Peace Index says that Nepal is the second most peaceful country in the South Asia. The Australia and US-based Institute of Economic and Peace’s ranking shows that when it comes to peace, Nepal is far more ahead than its neighbors like India, Sri-Lanka, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Nepal is even ahead of her northern neighbor China.

Nepal: A Travel Hub in South Asia

That’s one of the reasons why Nepal received a record number of tourists last year. Not only the tourist stay but the average number of days spent by tourists has also increased to a 7-year high in 2011. The trekking route in the Everest, Annapurna, and Langtang region also received increased number of tourist arrivals. The number of mountaineers and the number of their stay also rose in that year.

Not only that, Nepal is also increasingly becoming a meeting hub for regional and international organizations. Various international organizations and companies are finding Nepal a perfect place for conducting their seminars and meetings owing to Nepal’s scenic beauty, pleasant climate, and hospitable people.
Similarly, Nepal also hosted a regional level film festival week recently. Documentary films on environment protection were shown in the festival. The participants were from Nepal, India, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and the Philippines.

Nepal is also increasing becoming a regional adventure sports center. Besides mountaineering and trekking, you will find opportunity for many adventure activities here: bungee jumping, mountain biking, kayaking, paragliding, rafting, etc. Nepal is also seeing more adventure related infrastructure in its tourism industry. The recent one is the plan of creating an international standard rafting center at Bhotekoshi.

Recently, another adventure sports was introduced in Nepal’s tourist capital of Pokhara: Zipflyer. A popular adventure sport in Europe, Nepal’s Zipflyer is South Asia’s first Zipflyer adventure. This adventure sport takes you on ropes from Pokhara’s Sarankot Hill to Yamdi. You cross and pass by various mountains, jungles, lakes, and rivers. Pokhara’s Zip Line is supposed to be one of world’s fastest and longest Zip–lines.

When we were finally on the top of the Island Peak

It’s difficult to translate in words what we felt and what we saw when we were finally on the top of the Island Peak.

The day was absolutely fantastic – we were very lucky. We have reached the top of the Island Peak mountain at 09:00h in the morning and everything was just perfect. What sensational views! Everywhere we looked at we just could see big mountains. It’s amazing!

We would like to thank our climbing guide Mr. Pen Sherpa for his great professionalism. He has a great knowledge about these mountains.

We sincerely think that he is one of the best climbing guides we may find in Nepal. The two young sherpa that were with us were also very friendly and kind always worried with our well be and hydration. We only disposed of 2 weeks to be in Nepal and climb the Island Peak and Himalayan Glacier has an option that turned our wishes possible. What we did was very hard and atypical when climbing in Himalaya.

We would like to thank Himalayan Glacier Trekking for taking care of all the arrangement and for having understood our needs. Without their help our dream of climb a peak in Himalayan would have been impossible.

To climb Island Peak only in two weeks it’s important to be in a very good physical condition since you will have to walk 6-7hr in average per day. You don’t have time to acclimatize well. You have to do it wile you are walking and you will always sleep at high altitudes so it’s important to drink a lot of liquids and eat nice and energetic food. It’s very easy to loose the appetite at high altitudes.

For those people that like us don’t have much time to climb in Nepal, the good news are that there are agencies like Himalayan Glacier that can arrange a plan that fills your needs.

Pedro - Namche Bazar

Best regards

Pedro and Sílvia and Group
Island Peak climbing
March 2009

Joaquin and Montse in Solukhumbu. Island and Mera Peak thought Amphu Lhasa Pass. September-October 2008


Last September we arrived to Nepal for a trek to Island and Mera Peak. This was the second time we were flying from Kathmandu to Lukla with Himalayan Glacier trekking. In September 2007, we were caught in Khare by a strong snowfall that kept us inside the tent for a week. We did not climb the mountain but this turned out not to worry us in any extent: we felt great of simply being there and when heading for Lukla again we already knew we would come back very soon. Read More